Lucy's consultation notes

Age, skin type, skin tone, eye colour and shape, hair type and contraindications

Name: Lucy Bowler

Age: 19

Skin type: Normal to dry

Skin tone: Pale

Eye colour: Hazel

Eye shape: Round, quite close together

Hair type: Caucasian, straight

Contraindications: None 

Contemporary Victorian Gothic Hairstyles

Rolls 

 

Products used:

• Curler
• Pintail comb
• Grips

Method

To begin with, separate the hair at the front into 4 sections. The two on the left will curl towards the left and the two on the right will curl towards the right, and so do this and pin the curls to the head so that they cool in that position. Next, leaving the sides of the hair, curl the back of the hair in a brickwork fashion all the way to the bottom (Curling downwards). Lastly, with the sides of the hair, separate into 5 sections like in the photo, and curl towards the face. 

Updo hairstyle

 

Products used

• Pintail comb
• Grips

Method

Firstly, remove all grips from the back and side curls. Combine the top and middle curls at the back to create a small bouffant style look. Then take the curls at the bottom and twist them towards the head and then inside themselves and grip to the head so it looks like in the photo. Then take the side curls and combine them together and twist the ends and into themselves and make them flow with the twisted curls already there. Lastly, take the grips out of the curls at the front, and pull the outside ones and curl the end with your fingers and grip to the head. Then do the same with the inside ones but place them above the outside ones. 

Voluminous hairstyle

Products used:

• Paddle brush

Method

Take out all the grips from the previous hairstyle and brush the hair out with a paddle brush, making sure they you bring the brush in at the end of the hair. This will create this big, waved hairstyle. 

Original curls

Method

For this look, you just have to shake the head vigorously so that the curls come back out. 

Dark Eyes and Lips

 

Products used

• Illamasqua Neutral palette
• Cryogen Brilliant Colour Medley 
• MAC 217 brush
• Thin brush
• Eyeshadow brush
• Mascara
• Disposable mascara wand

Method

Begin with the gold colour in the neural palette and apply to the inner corner of the lid and the middle. Next, use the brown in the brilliant colour medley and apply in the crease and outer corner of the eye, working inwards so that there is a gradient and it is darker on the outside. Then apply black from the neutral palette on the outer corner to darken the gradient. After this, take the angled brush and use black again to line under the eyelashes. Lastly, apply mascara to the top and bottom lashes. 

Light Scarring and Moulds

 

Products used:

• Moulded gelatine scars
• Prosaide (contact glue)
• Pro-clean (to remove)
• Witch Hazel
• Cotton buds
• Wound filler
• Supracolour
• Fake blood

Method

Put prosaide on a cotton bud and place on the bottom of the moulded scar and on the skin where the mould is going to be placed. Wait for the glue to be tacky and place the scar on the skin, pressing very hard so that it is completely secure. Next, put witch hazel on a cotton bud and rub along the edges of the mould so that they look as if they are part of the skin. Once this is done, you can fill the middle with wound filler, supracolour and fake blood (I used black supracolour to give the effect of thick, fresh blood) and red supracolour on the outside and then flicked fake blood around the wound. 

Creating Estella Image

 

 

Products used on hair:

• Curlers
• Pintail comb
• Grips
• Clips
• Hairspray

Products used on face:

• Ultrafoundation palette 
• Illamasqua matte primer
• Mini-concealer palette
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Blusher palette
• MAC Shiny mixing medium

Creating Miss Havisham- Continuity Image

 

 

Miss Havisham Hair Practice

Products Used:

• Hairspray 
• Curling wand
• Pintail comb
• Hairbrush
• 2x butterfly clips
• Silver clips
• Hairgrips

Method

Begin by curling the fringe, then brushing, backcombing and hairspraying. Then separate the hair at the crown of the head. With the front, twist the two parts and fasten at the top of the head with the butterfly clip. Next, curl all of the back of the hair so that they are tight ringlets and fasten them to the hair with grips to cool, and once cooled, take them out. Lastly, bring all of the curls together into the middle of the back of the head and fasten with grips, then place butterfly clip in the middle of the bundle of hair. 

Miss Havisham Makeup Practice

 

 

Products used:

• Ultrafoundation Palette
• Illamasqua matte primer
• Illamasqua Skin Base- 01
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Brilliant colour medley palette
• Blusher Palette 
• Supracolour Palette
• Duo lash glue
• Powder brush
• Eyeshadow Brushes
• MAC 217
• Thin white brush
• Disposable mascara wand
• Foundation brush
• Tweezers

Method

Prep the skin with Illamasqua matte primer. Next, mix ultra foundation colour Alabaster with Skin base and apply to face with foundation brush. Following this, loosely pat the face with loose powder. Next, using the brown and grey colours from the brilliant colour medley palette, apply underneath the cheekbone as though you are contouring and bring the colour down creating am ombre effect. Next, mix the same two colours and use an eyeshadow brush around the eyes and make darker in the hollows of the eyes and where eye bags would occur. Then use youth red from the blusher palette and apply around the eye to make it look as if she has been crying. Next, create a brown colour using red, yellow and green in the Supracolour palette and with the thin white brush, make lines on the forehead, next to the eyes, in between the eyebrows, where smile lines would occur and on the chin. Following this, use the brown and grey shadows to contour the nose. Next, put white supracolour on a disposable mascara wand and brush through the eyebrows and the eyelashes. Lastly, put duo lash glue on the lips, wait for it to dry and then pick at it with tweezers. 

Early Victorian Hair

 

Products used:

• Curling wand
• Hair grips
• 2x hairbands
• Silver hair clips

Method

To begin with, separate the hair into a front section and a back section that is split where the ear is. Then part the front section down the middle and use the silver clips to clip these out of the way for now. At the back, comb the hair into a ponytail and use a hairband to secure. Then, plait the ponytail and use the other hairband to secure at the end. After this, wrap the ponytail into a bun and fasten the end with a grip, and then secure the hair onto the head with grips. This gives a plaited bun effect. Next, unclip the left section of the front of the hair and section, beginning at the bottom. Take half this section of hair and curl with the wand towards the face. Keep doing this until you get to the top, and then repeat on the other side. This should give an early Victorian hairstyle which was very common and is seen repeatedly in Victorian based television programmes and films. 

Burns

Products used:

• Block gelatine or Kryolan gel in a bottle 
• Bowl with water in
• Spatula
• Supra colour
• Fake blood
• Glycerin 
• Hairdryer
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Fine brush

Method

For this burn, I used the Kryolan gel. Put the bottle in the bowl of water and place in the microwave for about 15 seconds. Take it out of the microwave and shake, if it doesn't feel hot enough put in for another 10 seconds. Once this is done, pour a bit on the inside of your wrist so that you know that the temperature will not burn your client. You need to then work quickly otherwise the gel will dry and harden in the bottle. Pour some gel on the desired area and spread with the flat end of your spatula, making sure that there are no edges. Tap on the top to create gaps that will be the holes that give the burn effect. Then cool the gel with a cool hairdryer until it is hard. Once this is done, pat some translucent powder over the top. From here you can colour the burn with supracolour and a fine brush, and also use this brush with blood to apply in the areas where skin will be raw. Once this is done, you can apply glycerin over the top of the areas that are not liquid (e.g. blood) which makes the burn look even more raw.

Extra notes

A cheaper alternative for gelatine is Dr.Oetker gelatine available in supermarkets, however this is not appropriate to use on set. If you want to colour the gelatine, you can mix supracolour or aqua colour in while it is melted, and if you want to add glitter, you can only do so once and as soon as it hardens, you will not be able to put it back in the microwave. This is because glitter is metal, and this is dangerous in a microwave. If you want to create a chemical burn, they are usually smooth because you have not been burned with a flame. If you want to remove the gelatine, it is usually easy to take off with shampoo and warm water. 

Personally I believe that I need more practice when it comes to creating burns because I feel as if the one I have created isn't very realistic. Bearing in mind that it is my first time, I think that I have learnt how difficult it is working with gelatine and it's time limitations, especially when you don't have a specific burn or look in mind. These are things that I would take into account when using these products again and creating this look again. 

Late Victorian Hair

 

 

 

Products used:
Curling iron
Hair grips
Hairband
Pintail comb














Method
To begin with, section the front of the hair from the back of the hair, and then section the front of the hair down the middle and secure these so that you can work on them later. At the back, create a horseshoe shape and create a ponytail with a quarter of the back section of the hair. Then separate the ponytail into 3 sections, curl each one and roll them towards the head and pin, making sure that they aren't very symmetrical as you want the hair to look as if it has been piled upon the head. Then, take sections from below, curl them and do the same, pinning them towards the middle of the head and going down to create this look. However when close to the bottom, curl the sections of the hair that are left and pin them to the head from about halfway down the section of the hair so the rest of the section can flow down as this was the look in the late Victorian era. Now with the front sections of the hair, curl them towards the middle, twist them and pin them to the piles at the back of the head.

Perfect Black Eye, Cuts, Scratches and Bruises

 

 
 


Products used:
Black eye:
Kryolan Supracolour palette
Small makeup brush

Cut:
Moulding wax
Latex
Sealer
Wound filler
Blood

Scar:
Collodion
Barrier cream

Method:
Black eye:
To begin with, you need to think about which stage the black eye is in. For example when it is fresh it will be purple and red, and when it is healing there will be yellow and green colours. For this look, mix red and purple to create the colour here, and apply it to points where the eye would not have healed yet and is still raw and painful. Next, apply yellows and greens in places where damage would have been less to the eye. When this is done, do not powder over the top because black eyes are shiny and not matte. To add to the effect you can buy red eye drops and also a crimson eye pencil to make the eye look even more red and sore.

Cut:
To begin with, place the wax on the back of your hand so that it's warmed up and more flexible so that you can blend out the edges. Apply it to the area that you would like with a palette knife. Next, place latex over this with a baby bud and cool it with a cool hairdryer. You can use a small pin to pick up the wax to make it look more flesh like. After this, put wound filler in the middle of the wound with the pointy end of  spatula or a small pointy makeup brush. Stipple a bit of blood around it with a black sponge. Then you can apply liquid blood in the middle of the wound with a pointed spatula.

Scar:
Apply barrier cream to the area that you want to have the scar. Then paint the collodion onto the area and cool with a cool hairdryer. Apply another layer and do the same.

Ageing

 

 



Products used:
For old face:
Thin pointy brush
Supracolour
Foundation brush and palette
Disposable mascara wand
Tooth enamel
Black stipple sponge
Blood

For old hand:
Old age stipple (Latex based)
White stipple sponge
Barrier Cream

Method for the old face:
Mix red, green and yellow to make a brown colour that will be applied to the face to make it look aged. Then using the thin pointy brush, apply this to the face in areas where shadows are most prominent and lines are accentuated when facial expressions are made. Such as under the eyes and where crows feet would occur, along the smile lines and on the forehead. Next, put white supracolour on the disposable mascara wand and sweep across the eyebrows, making sure you get into the root. You can also put this on the eyelashes. After this, lightly dab a black stipple sponge in fake blood and gently tap it on areas like the end of the nose and t-zone to replicate broken blood vessels. Lastly, choose which teeth you would like to place enamel on and dry them thoroughly. Then you can paint the enamel on the tooth, making sure that the mouth is kept open until it is dry.

Method for old hand
Firstly, place barrier cream on the hand so that the latex does not irritate the skin. Apply the latex with the white sponge, making sure that the edges are even and not too thick so that it looks natural. Dry with a cool hairdryer, and then pinch the skin so that the latex folds and looks old.